The foodservice industry, which was Canada’s fourth-largest source of private sector jobs before the pandemic, reflects the country’s impressive diversity. Women make up 58 per cent of the foodservice workforce, and 31 per cent of restaurant owners, operators and staff belong to a visible minority.

Over the last decades, advocates, industry leaders, owners and operators have increased their efforts to present a truly inclusive face of the industry. Yet more needs to be done, say three Black change-makers, who will also participate in the upcoming 2022 RC Show, hosted by Restaurants Canada.

Marissa Leon-John, Private Chef

There’s a great quote by Maya Angelou, “When you know better, you do better,” and I believe that growing awareness about the importance of diversity has led to a positive change. In the past, I would often be the only person of colour at an industry event, but now I encounter peers who look like me and have their own dynamic stories to tell.

It’s inspiring when we are all able to present our gifts to the world – and get recognized for these contributions. For me, it’s especially the spices and flavours of the Caribbean that sing to my soul. They evoke family gatherings, where the matriarchs of the households would be in the kitchen and kids would sneak bites of the delicious food, prepared from recipes that have been passed down from watching, smelling and tasting.

And even though I am familiar with Caribbean food, there are still many new and surprising things to discover. Black food is incredibly dynamic, diverse and multifaceted, and many Canadians may not be aware that a great number of the dishes we cherish were created by people with a melanated skin tone.

In the food industry, there is room for everybody to contribute. That’s part of the message I’ve been working to spread since I was a finalist on MasterChef Canada in 2018, which helped me discover my passion for sharing my love of food through feeding people. Shortly after, I started my own company, doing private events, dinner parties and potlucks.

At first, I would often encounter surprise when I would show up in person, because I looked different from the kind of chef clients were expecting. But these moments happen less and less, since people now recognize my face – and the food speaks for itself.

A focus on representation has changed things for the better. While the foodservice industry has always been diverse, we’re now seeing more industry leaders being open to learning and listening – and to changing business practices to prove that yes, we are inclusive.

While the pandemic has been incredibly challenging, we also have a great opportunity to implement what we’ve learned over the last few years as we reopen and bring people back into jobs.

Christina Veira, Co-owner, Bar Mordecai, Bar & Beverage Curator for Restaurants Canada

The foodservice industry in Canada has a high proportion of participation of Black, Indigenous and people of colour (BIPOC), with many of those being women. And this means there can be no honest conversation about the industry that doesn’t honour and include these voices.

The history and development of the foodservice industry, especially in North America, is also inextricably linked to the contributions and labour of Black people, which is why it is important to recognize Black voices.

One thing that is often overlooked in the conversation around entrepreneurship is the lasting effects of systemic racism on many of systems Black entrepreneurs access, especially regarding financial systems. Systemic racism contributes to a lack of generational wealth as well as significant barriers in the access to credit and many of the networks that help with the creation and establishment of businesses.

When you look at Black businesses and entrepreneurs, you will find that many of them start as pop-ups – and with less “traditional” business plans. In startup culture, this is often branded as “disruptor culture” and dismissed as being unprofessional or untested, yet this couldn’t be further from the truth. It takes a lot more work, promotional skills, charm and money management when you bet your life savings on a pop-up rather than being able to draw on money from a bank.

I know of these challenges to Black ownership from personal experience. My bar opened in January 2020. It is incredibly rare to be a woman of colour – especially a Black woman – in this industry, where the pathway to ownership is primarily extended to white males. As the managing partner of a business, I was given “sweat equity.”

People love our talents – they’re just not given the same value. The history of mentorship in our industry has often been kept to a boys’ club. Beyond that, significant barriers to who and how traditional systems judge talents and viable businesses keep a substantial number of Black people from access to ownership.

Like all owners and operators, I draw inspiration from all aspects of my history. For example, my paternal grandparents owned a few businesses, including a trucking company, store and dance hall. And many members of my maternal family worked in hotels.

To me, hospitality is a proud part of my legacy – and a source of power and autonomy. Black entrepreneurs don’t just need “tips” and “mentorship” and “recognition.” Our industry will benefit from insuring that all those three are accompanied by equity of access.

Ren Navarro, Beer Diversity

Over the past decade, there have been exciting developments in the beer industry; for example, the addition of new ingredients as well as efforts to replicate old-school products. The goal is to appeal to people from different backgrounds. For me, lagers remind me of how beer is consumed to stay cool in Caribbean countries, and beers that taste of guava or mango remind me of the flavours I grew up with.

Beer appeals to a diverse consumer base, yet when I left the corporate world and got a job at a Toronto-based brewery, I didn’t see a lot of people who look like me in the industry. This raised questions about representation in the alcohol sector, and I started Beer Diversity about four years ago.

Since then, there have been some positive changes; for example, in advertising and in paying more attention to diversity in leadership positions. And one of the positive things coming out of the pandemic is accessibility; for instance, through online education. I’ve noticed a lot of different areas in hospitality opening up roles for people who previously wouldn’t have had access to them. And this can potentially inspire others to join the industry and learn how to be change-makers.

Another welcome shift in awareness comes from campaigns that encourage people to support local businesses. Beyond advertising local goods, they invite consumers to learn more about the local business community. Telling inspirational stories – including from immigrants and people who have faced adversity – can help to build community.

It’s about creating loyalty and sparking interest in not just the beverage – but in how it was made and how it impacts the community. And by showing what food goes with different beverages, this can further enhance consumers’ experiences.

February is Black History Month, a chance to celebrate the contribution of the Black community as well as talk about challenges. However, if we really want to affect change, it’s important to keep the momentum going all year round.

To view this report on The Globe's website, visit globeandmail.com

To view the full report as it appeared in The Globe's print edition: Restaurants Canada

Celebrating diverse contributions to a vibrant culinary scene during Black History Month